I used this 2 1/2 x 2 1/2" x 30"
piece of oak for the rack connection joints.
I cut the 30" piece of oak into 6 blocks
measuring 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 4". I used a
table router to round off all of the edges.
Using a drill press I drilled a 1 1/4" top hole straight through.
The hole on the side was drilled to
meet up with the top hole. I did the same thing with the other 5 blocks.
I drilled a 23/64" hole for the 1/4" threaded
insert for all 6 blocks. I used a 1" socket
cap screw as the tightening screw that fits into the threaded insert.
Now I will put together the pieces for the top
and bottom cross bar which will use four of the blocks.
I cut one 36" x 1 1/4" oak dowel in half and
inserted one of them in the hole in the block. I drilled 1/4" hole
from top to bottom down through the block and dowel at the same time.
Increased the hole size on the bottom to 23/64
for the threaded inserts.
I increased the size of the top hole to 3/8" and 1/8"
deep so the 2 1/2" socket cap screw would tighten even with the surface.
Did the same thing for the right side. This will be the top cross bar. I
made another one exactly the same for the bottom cross bar.
I took two more 36" x 1 1/4" oak dowels and
cut to 23". Inserted them into the bottom cross bar. This is the back view.
I used carpenters wood glue to glue the 13" long oak dowels that I cut from
the step above into the blocks. I made two of these, one for the snare
and one for the tom 3.
Now I need something to support the rack. I found a 4"x4"x8' Douglas fur
post for $10.00. Then I stained it to look like the rest of the oak rack. I
could have gone with an oak post but it cost about $50.00 for the same size
piece. I'm trying to keep the costs low.
I cut two 20" length pieces. Cut a 45 degree angle on the front area.
5" from the back of the block, I drilled a 1 1/4" hole to 2 1/2"
deep angling it back 10 degrees.
I then centered 2 1" holes on the inside of the block 1" deep
and 4" apart for the bass pedal support.
Cut a 36" x 1" oak dowel in half and inserted then into the 4 holes. If
every thing is measured right the rack will slide down in the top two
holes.
Using the L-rods and rack clamps you can position
the drums just about any way you like.
If you like to hit the drums hard and you think
you need more support you can add an adjustable support for the snare and tom 3.
I drilled a 1/2" hole 6" deep in the 1 1/4" dowel and 1" hole in the
opposite end for the 1/2" dowel. I drilled a 23/64" hole for the
threaded insert. The white things are door stops with adhesive backing.
They probably come in all colors. I just happen to have these.
Update: I did a test without the support. I hit the drums almost as hard
as I could. I didn't want to brake my sticks and the drums aren't going
any where.
Assembled adjustable support.
I Adjusted my drums to where I like them. Then
added the adjustable support.
Or if you don't like the look of wood. Paint the
fittings black and use some low cost chrome clothes rod.
Next I will
show how easy it is to setup the drum kit.